More weirdness with my turn signals

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  • GL1800 (Any Year): More weirdness with my turn signals

    As you may recall, I had some issues with my front turn signals after getting my bike back from the engine rebuild. Here is a chronological order of events, please tell me if you have any ideas.

    BEFORE THE ACCIDENT

    I had LED switchback front turn signals from SoCalMotoGear that worked perfectly, everything was fine

    AFTER THE ENGINE REBUILD

    Left LED running light was white (normal), left turn signal was yellow (normal). Right running light was yellow (NOT normal/should be white) and turn signal was yellow (normal)

    When either right or left turn signal were engaged, the dash indicators would both flash (as if the hazard lights were on)

    Also, depressing either brake (front or rear) would cause both dash signals to illuminate

    I went through all of the wiring on the turn signals and everything looked OK.

    I replaced the front signal LEDs with standard bulbs and everything worked perfectly. No more flashing hazard dash lights. I assumed there was something wrong with one of the LEDs

    YESTERDAY I REPLACED THE STANDARD BULBS WITH NEW, REPLACEMENT SWITCHBACK LEDS

    Even though both LEDs have the proper color (white/yellow), the hazard dash flashing issue is back. Also, when the brakes are applied, the dash signals illuminate.

    It would appear tat this has to be some sort of wiring issue, but I am not sure where to look. Any thoughts?

    THE ISSUES ONLY OCCUR WHEN I HAVE THE LEDs INSTALLED. WHEN I INSTALL REGULAR BULBS IN THE FRONT TURN SIGNALS, EVERYTHING WORKS NORMALLY.
    Last edited by Cruiseman; 03-24-2016, 07:02 AM.
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  • #2
    None whatsoever. That issue could be difficult to isolate and repair. It may be caused by something as simple as a broken or disconnected ground wire but finding that wire is a challenge.

    Troubleshooting a complex machine like a Goldwing usually assumes that nothing has been altered therefore a component has failed causing the problem.

    When the machine has been disassembled and reassembled the starting assumptions have to include suspicion of wiring harnesses, individual wires, components accidentally broken. and connections reassembled incorrectly.

    I would take it back to the dealer that repaired the engine and tell them ''you fix it.'' You could get lucky and find it quickly but possibly spend hundreds of hours searching and testing.
    Harvey Barlow
    Crosby County, TX
    2010 Goldwing Level II Pearl Yellow (sold at 93,000 miles)
    2014 Goldwing Level II Pearl Blue (sold at 27,000 miles to forum member)

    Comment: (For off-topic replies)


    • #3
      I agree - Moving the main Electrical Haress Can cause Intemitten problems with Loss of Continuaty of spliced grds - You minght try removing the entire Sol-cal Light System ad inspect harness - it could also be the LED-Relay/Switch - has a problem with back feeding the circuit? - Easy fix is to go back to regual bulbs - or Contact Socal for a New complete set and Swap it out and see if corrects the problem if not - then the issue is with the Main bike Harness - requiring plastic removeal ad Haress inspection for pinched or open wiring.

      Also Possible is when the dealer reassembled the Aftermarket lights it was reconnect backwards/wrong way and fried somethig in the socal setup causig the back-feeding therough the switch or relay? Just like you I'm guessing.
      Whoever said money can’t buy happiness, never paid for a divorce


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      • #4
        My Goldwing tech has told me that a Goldwing has more length of wiring than a Honda Civic. That sounded like an exaggeration to me but that's what he claims. I don't think there is any doubt that a Goldwing has a lot of harnesses, components, and connections.
        Harvey Barlow
        Crosby County, TX
        2010 Goldwing Level II Pearl Yellow (sold at 93,000 miles)
        2014 Goldwing Level II Pearl Blue (sold at 27,000 miles to forum member)

        Comment: (For off-topic replies)


        • #5
          I would think there is reversed polarity somewhere making it feed back. Since the only issue is when the LED's are in. (Light emitting diode) by nature diodes only let electricity flow one way, a standard light bulb doesn't care which way the electricity flows. So maybe a plug got reversed somewhere positive for negative. I would use a digital multimeter (not a test light) and test the leads of the effected lights. Use one lead on one wire and the other lead on the other wire not ground. Your muti-meter should show either positive or negative voltage.
          Progressive Monotubes
          All Balls
          Race Tech G3S Custom shock
          Dunlop E3 front
          Yokohama Envigor 195-55-16 rear Darkside #1591

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          • #6
            I still think your problem is ground related. If you have the wiring diagram try to look at it and determine if all of the impacted circuits somehow make their way back to a common ground. There are two major grounding points that come to mind that have caused problems in the past. One is under the gas tank I if memory serves) and the other is under the nose cone of the fairing.

            Another option that might shed some light on this is to tap into the ground wire of one or more of these impacted bulbs and run that wire to a known good ground. The logic behind this suggestion is rather simple.....if all of those circuits share a common ground that is faulty, then providing a good ground to all those commonly impacted bulbs should make a noticeable difference in the behavior of the lights.

            Good luck. The electrical problems are a big PITA for me.
            Richard
            Darksider #390
            Murgie's FAQ

            Comment: (For off-topic replies)

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