changing brake pads

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  • changing brake pads

    I'm going to change my brake pads tonight. I have a manual and it seems easy enough, but I don't want to damage anything. What's the best way to push the piston all the way in? It seems like I could damage the rotor. TIA.

  • #2
    I always remove the caliper from the rotor before pushing in the pistons
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    • #3
      I just did my front brake pads. Took the calipers off to do it (I was changing the tire anyway, so I had already planned on removing them). I left the old pads in place inside the calipers, and a big handle screwdriver. Working from one end of the pads to the other, I twisted the handle of screwdriver against the old pads, and pushed in the pistons.
      2012 Honda Goldwing | 2009 Timeout Camper



      Patriot Guard Rider since 2007 | IBA member #59823

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      • #4
        The very first thing I do rather than removing fluid from the reservoir is to crack the bleeder screw on the caliper that I'm replacing pads on so the piston has less resistance when pushing it in, clean the exposed piston with an old toothbrush and then push the piston in. Very little resistance once the bleeder is cracked and if you do remove the caliper you can use the old pad to cover the piston and a small c-clamp to push it back in. Check all brake reservoirs for the proper level when done.
        Location: Vancouver WA Former name: CAWING '04 GL1800
        When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace.
        Jimi Hendrix
        Vietnam Veteran, Patriot Guard Rider

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        • #5
          With the caliper removed, I remove the pads, then by applying the brakes, let the pistons extend fully so I can clean them with brake cleaner. I can usually press the pistons back in (although it takes some muscle) without loosening a bleed valve, but that is not a bad idea, especially if you have speed bleeders.
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          • #6
            Thanks everyone, I got it all done and everything seems to be good! Thanks for taking time to help with what must be pretty trivial to most of you.

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            • #7
              Glad you got it done.
              Richard
              Darksider #390
              Murgie's FAQ

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Cruiseman View Post
                With the caliper removed, I remove the pads, then by applying the brakes, let the pistons extend fully so I can clean them with brake cleaner. I can usually press the pistons back in (although it takes some muscle) without loosening a bleed valve, but that is not a bad idea, especially if you have speed bleeders.
                Very good point. Cleaning the pistons is a very important step to prevent seal damage.

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                • #9
                  Good job ., love working on my bike , when I first got my 01 it had a slight vibration at high speed and when I removed rear wheel and inspected the brakes found that 1 brake shoe was not seated in its slot and was sitting about 1/4" low on 1 end coming into contact with the rotor rivets and wearing them down by a third , I suspect the pads were changed with the wheel on were you put the pads in by feel maybe not such a good idea

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                  • #10
                    I did the rear last night, and the fronts this morning. I have an appointment with the bank this afternoon to see about a small business loan to open a Goldwing repair shop!!! Lol

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                    • #11
                      Doing brakes is not as scary as they might at first seem . . . . great chance to check all bolts for tightness, etc. I'd strongly suggest uisng a torque wrench.
                      Life is all about decisions. I decided for Jesus Christ.
                      04 All White
                      Mich Alpin PA3
                      Darkside #956

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