Hid questions.

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  • Hid questions.

    I'm looking at HID's for my bike. I was noticing they have two low beam cut out switches on the site Cruiseman's recommends. My question is which one is needed? Is the switch nessasary? And what are thought on having the dual setup highs and lows? I have a 03 1800.

  • #2
    Not sure about two cutout switches, and haven't taken the effort to go look at Cruiseman's recommendations. However, Electrical Connection sells one, taps off the oil pressure relay to kick on the low beams. Prevents the On then Off then On that happens if you wire into the stock headlight circuit. Much easier on the ballasts and HID system.

    I personally run DDMTuning HIDs in the low beams, and stock H7 in the high beams with a Kisan modulator. I don't recommend HID for the high beams unless you are out in the boonies with very little oncoming traffic. Otherwise you'll be constantly turning them on and off, not good for them plus it does take a few seconds to come up to full brightness. I've installed HIDs on several wings, all have been happy. Recommend 35 watt, 4500k (5000k max, otherwise too white getting into blue). I do not recommend the 55 watt for the low beams, much too bright and tends to gain unwanted attention from the LEOs.

    I also run a separate power and relay system for my HIDs as the stock wiring can cause intermittent light-off of the HIDs sometimes due to the wiring gauge that Honda uses. While the running amperage is lower, the initial starting current draw is higher and sometimes the ballast has an issue with the voltage drop that occurs with the stock wiring.

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    • #3
      i had so cal put their hid's in my bike at sturgis. plug and play i love them.

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      • #4
        Their are two different cutout switches, depending on what year model bike you have. EC sells both and you just need to order the correct one for your bike. I think SoCal sells them, but cannot swear to it.

        I ran my HIDs for two years with no switch and they performed fine. However, I might have shortened the life of the ballasts by doing so, no way to tell until one dies. So, the switch is a good idea.

        I do not recommend running HIDs on high beams as they have a "warm up" time of a couple of seconds before they achieve full brightness. This does not make them well suited for high-beams when you want instant light. Also, not sure how shutting them on and off repeatedly will wear on them. And thrid, you can't use HIDs with a modulator. So, you are better off sticking to a good, bright, halogen as a high beam bulb.
        Save $1000 a year in labor by doing your own maintenance!

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        • #5
          Thanks Guys all good information. I would rather hear this kind of info from guys with the experience than hear it from a guy that sells the product. Never know what you are getting from a sales guy.

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          • #6
            This is what you need if buying from SoCal:

            This is what you need if buying from EC:

            SoCal is 18 bucks and EC is 17 bucks. In both instances it is EC PN# 02114 without airbag.
            2007 Crucible Orange Metallic
            2009 Kawasaki Red Concours 14
            AMA Life Member 0672853
            IBA Member 8846 Premier
            NRA Life Member

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            • #7
              Good stuff getting ready to purchase HIDs had no idea about a cutout switch. Will be buying from a venter off this site.
              2018 DCT non tour, Pearl Stallion Brown, Double Darksider #856, Live To Ride, Love my Wing, IBA Member# 63744 Yellowbird Alias Coppertone

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