Brake and clutch fluid flush

[CAC]

I am starting to learn and do all of my maintenance. I want to flush my brake and clutch fluids. Last winter I changed out my final drive, changed my air cleaner and refreshed my front forks myself with the help from some guys on this forum. I can't wait to do it again this winter, LOL. Is flushing the brake and clutch something that I can also do myself? I've read some threads on it in the past and know that I will need a few special tools. Are there any how to videos I can look at? This is not something I'm going to right away, I am just being the ant and preparing for winter. Thanks.

[Cruiseman]

You don't really need any special tools, other than a capture hose for the old fluid. The brakes must be bled in a specific order. This information is in the Honda Service Manual.

I have a a DVD set that shows how to do this, or you can get the videos On Demand (streaming). I recommend that you install Speed Bleeders to replace your OEM bleed valves. Makes the job a LOT easier as a one-man job.

[crabbywinger]

If you don't have Fred Harmon's DVDs I would most highly recommend them. Some of the guys use speedbleeders, I use the Motion Pro Bleeder. Everyone has their favorite way of doing it, but as I say I like the Motion Pro bleeder. Make sure you know the sequence that Honda uses and follow it to get the best job. Also make sure that you don't let the reservoirs run dry and suck air - bad JU JU happens then. Rocky also recommends the you bleed the banjo bolt that is up under the cowl and on the front forks. He would be the best one to tell you all the procedures. Hope this helps, sorry about the ramble. Take care.

Crabby Bob

[CAC]

Crabbywinger,
I had purchased Fred's DVD's and ended up selling them because I wasn't doing my maint. I've since then started working on my bike for non warranted items. I think I read about Rocky's bleed to cure the spongy rear brake pedal, (if that's the one you're referring to) I'll have to look that up again....but it may be deleted since it was on the other forum. Thanks for the input!

Cruiseman,
I got on your website and checked it out. If I were to rent on demand is that a one shot play? I would rather rent the ones I need because some of the DVD's I won't need. From past experience I did a lot of going back and forth from the bike to the videos. Does that make any sense? LOL. I would also like to thank you for all that you are doing! I think things are going to be great here.

[Cruiseman]

Cruiseman,
I got on your website and checked it out. If I were to rent on demand is that a one shot play? I would rather rent the ones I need because some of the DVD's I won't need. From past experience I did a lot of going back and forth from the bike to the videos. Does that make any sense? LOL. I would also like to thank you for all that you are doing! I think things are going to be great here.

With the rental (per video) program, you can stream the videos for up to 72 hours. You can watch them as many times as necessary during that 72 hours, but there is no Download option like there is on the $99 purchase. As long as you have Internet access, you can watch them streaming on any device in HD.

[Rocky]

Clair. you can do a fluid flush one of two ways.

Option 1. my preferred way. is with a helper.
You'll need yo go to home depot and get a roll of clear plastic tubing. 1/8 ID. (Less that $4)
An old mayo or coffee container (Plastic)
Drill a small hole in the cover so you have to force the tubing in it. (That way if it tips over no spillage)

Tolls
8MM & 10mm wrenches (The frame fitting requires a cut back 10mm line wrench)
12mm box wrench (for top banjo fitting bolt on top of Secondary Master cyl above left caliper-when sitting on bike)
1 QT of Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4 brake fluid.

Option 2. if you want to do this by yourself? Then go to Harbor frieght or likewise tool shop and buy a Mity-Vac.

This allows you to vacuum out the fluid by yourself.


No matter which way you do this job.
You start by placing towels under both the Brake and Clutch Master cyl's (if you are going to flush the clutch too)
So if you spill fluid??-It will go on the towels and not any painter parts. (Brake fluid and painted parts or any plastic don't play very well )

A spray bottle of soapy water is kept handy in case there is a brake fluid spill-The soapy water will in effect neutralize the brake fluid and no damage (you don't even have to clean up the soapy water right away)

Get your container set up and follow the bleeding sequence in every manual. Then follow my last two steps to rid the system of a hidden air bubble!! (Instructions to follow)

Option 1- have your helper pump the hand lever three time and say "down" and tell them to hold the lever to the grip (when you open the bleeder valve)
Have them say "Down" and hold it there. when you open the bleeder valve to expel the old fluid. Then after you close the valve (10 seconds or so)
You say Again,and they repeat the process until you see clear fluid in the clear tubing.

Normally- I'll have them watch the reservoir until it is about half full (there is a fill line in the master) and then tell you it needs more fluid. (do not pump or suck it dry or you'll want to kick yourself!)
Top it off to the fill line and continue through each step (Valve).

Do the same for the rear master reservoir. It's fill line in right under the cap threads on the reservoir body (Square window stamped in it)

After you do the first 2 brake lever steps & the 5 rear steps. you go onto 6&7 of the Rocky bleed steps with the cut back 10mm line wrench.
Then the 12mm wrench for the SMC secondary master cyl.

If you have any questions. you have my number.


BRAKE BLEEDING SEQUENCE


1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve

Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome engine cover)
1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top
5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve

Do these two additional Steps to be sure you have no residual air bubble in the rear system!!
6: Pressure bleeding the lower Junction block. (Upper left side of frame sitting on bike).Follow rubber hose from Secondary master cyl to the Junction block.
7) Pressure Bleed the top Banjo bolt on the Secondary Master Cyl. (To be sure the air bubble is completely out)




Lower arrow here is the fitting you need to loosen the get the air out of the metal block shown.




12mm bolt in red circle here.

[CAC]

Thanks Rocky! I am not ready to do it yet, so I saved it to my computer, just in case somehow all of your information gets deleted again so I have it when I'm ready.

[Rick Mays]

Follows Rockys post to the letter. You can do it, if you did all the other stuff you did to your bike.

[TravelinLite]

Clair, I know you'll often get up and head out on the bike for no particular reason. If you happen to be down this way (Winchester), give me a shout and we can go do the brakes/clutch flush and bleed. Just be aware that I don't have the 10mm line wrench Rocky mentions and I'd be afraid to attempt that connection without it. I have head that can be a very tight connection.

[CAC]

Travelinlite,
I was just in your area yesterday, we got on Rt. 50 in Winchester. We ate at a club in Inwood WV. I was with a couple friends that have Harley's and I think we made it to the speed limit a couple times, but I'm not sure! . I ended up riding home alone because I just couldn't do it anymore. Anyway, I may take you up on your offer. Maybe someday when you and your side kick have a maintenance day that you spoke of the other weekend, I could shoot on down and do it. It is always less stressful when the knowledge is close. You guys can probably have both your bikes torn down completely and put back together before I finish the flush, I am very slow the first time I tackle something. Thanks.

[TravelinLite]

Sounds like a plan.

[Kit Carson]

Rocky about covered it, I like this or one like it, vacuum pressure bleeder though, makes life easy. You do have to have a compressor though, and I do put a ten foot section of clear hose on it also that fits the end of the bleed fittings and forget about that gizmo attachment thing they give you, just toss it in the trash.

With a vacuum bleeder you do not even have to worry about any sequence, just keep both masters from running dry and all is well. Crack the two places on the secondary and your brakes will be firm and like new, most likely better than new.

I heated up my line wrench and bent it so it would fit better also. Gives a bit of room to put a cheater on it, that line nut is on there, tight, King Cong must install them.

[crabbywinger]

Kit - Do you have a place to buy one of these, or a link? Always looking for new tools and/or gadgets. Thanks in advance to the URL guy. Take care.

Crabby Bob

[strotter]

Get "speedbleaders" makes it a very easy project.

[Kit Carson]

Kit - Do you have a place to buy one of these, or a link? Always looking for new tools and/or gadgets. Thanks in advance to the URL guy. Take care.

Crabby Bob

Normally I would not recommend Harbor Freight, but in this case the one they have for I think 40 bucks is just fine. It is simply a venturi that creates a vacuum by using compressed air rushing past the venturi. Not much can go wrong with that. I also put a ten foot length of clear tygon hose on it and you can walk all the way around a bike and work without dragging the bleeder around. The waste container is large enough to do several bikes without the hassle of dumping it.

In this case the Harbor Fright one is fine. All auto part stores have them also and places like Pep Boys also have them.

[crabbywinger]

Thanks for the info Kit. The one with the most tools wins ...... Right? Take care.

Crabby Bob

[jmohme]

Clair. you can do a fluid flush one of two ways.

Option 1. my preferred way. is with a helper.
You'll need yo go to home depot and get a roll of clear plastic tubing. 1/8 ID. (Less that $4)
An old mayo or coffee container (Plastic)
Drill a small hole in the cover so you have to force the tubing in it. (That way if it tips over no spillage)

Tolls
8MM & 10mm wrenches (The frame fitting requires a cut back 10mm line wrench)
12mm box wrench (for top banjo fitting bolt on top of Secondary Master cyl above left caliper-when sitting on bike)
1 QT of Valvoline synthetic DOT 3/4 brake fluid.

Option 2. if you want to do this by yourself? Then go to Harbor frieght or likewise tool shop and buy a Mity-Vac.

This allows you to vacuum out the fluid by yourself.


No matter which way you do this job.
You start by placing towels under both the Brake and Clutch Master cyl's (if you are going to flush the clutch too)
So if you spill fluid??-It will go on the towels and not any painter parts. (Brake fluid and painted parts or any plastic don't play very well )

A spray bottle of soapy water is kept handy in case there is a brake fluid spill-The soapy water will in effect neutralize the brake fluid and no damage (you don't even have to clean up the soapy water right away)

Get your container set up and follow the bleeding sequence in every manual. Then follow my last two steps to rid the system of a hidden air bubble!! (Instructions to follow)

Option 1- have your helper pump the hand lever three time and say "down" and tell them to hold the lever to the grip (when you open the bleeder valve)
Have them say "Down" and hold it there. when you open the bleeder valve to expel the old fluid. Then after you close the valve (10 seconds or so)
You say Again,and they repeat the process until you see clear fluid in the clear tubing.

Normally- I'll have them watch the reservoir until it is about half full (there is a fill line in the master) and then tell you it needs more fluid. (do not pump or suck it dry or you'll want to kick yourself!)
Top it off to the fill line and continue through each step (Valve).

Do the same for the rear master reservoir. It's fill line in right under the cap threads on the reservoir body (Square window stamped in it)

After you do the first 2 brake lever steps & the 5 rear steps. you go onto 6&7 of the Rocky bleed steps with the cut back 10mm line wrench.
Then the 12mm wrench for the SMC secondary master cyl.

If you have any questions. you have my number.


BRAKE BLEEDING SEQUENCE


1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve

Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome engine cover)
1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top
5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve

Do these two additional Steps to be sure you have no residual air bubble in the rear system!!
6: Pressure bleeding the lower Junction block. (Upper left side of frame sitting on bike).Follow rubber hose from Secondary master cyl to the Junction block.
7) Pressure Bleed the top Banjo bolt on the Secondary Master Cyl. (To be sure the air bubble is completely out)




Lower arrow here is the fitting you need to loosen the get the air out of the metal block shown.




12mm bolt in red circle here.

Very clear explanation!

[Gold Winger]

Get "speedbleaders" makes it a very easy project.

I have used the speedbleeders and they make it a simple one-man job!

[Cruiseman]

I have used the speedbleeders and they make it a simple one-man job!

[Yellowbird]

Nice Stuff looks like i have a lot of work to do just turned 40,000 miles time to change my fluids