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With the problems I have had with the new to me bike (that was Triked) has sent me all over the place while trying to resolve some electrical issues that ultimately impacted on my Pingel Electric shifter. Much to my surprise this darling, when asked to shift, will pull a significant amount of AMPS to complete the shift (pull up or push down). I thought I had solved the problem when I finally, after eliminating what I thought was MANY possibilities, by getting one of the new "somewhat" pricey Lithium batteries. Shifts were great, and I made it home from Nashville without having to get my lovely bride to slide forward and complete EACH down shift for me (she just loved doing that). Well, the bike sat for about a week and BINGO, dead as a door nail battery. Long story short, I discovered that while adding a USB port in the back of the bike, and picking up the "hot" lead from the trunk lid, I had crossed and "crushed" the red and black between the trunk and the interior lid. I have a Big Bike Parts rack that is through drilled so when installed that really compresses the two together, which is where the wires had slid to when reinstalling the two.
In any event, I disconnected the neg and added a in-line meter and read that I had a .23 AMP draw prior to finding the crushed wires. Fixed and replaced those and made doubly sure that they were safe, but still read 15 milliamps, after taking out all of the fuses.
I had been doing some reading and searching, along with a good buddy who was also doing research and we came up with the "leaky diode" mystery from the Alt. Now this is where it gets good.
I had gotten SOOOOOOO tired of fooling with what I had thought would be a trouble free to me bike, that I figured I would just do some riding and then with a clear mind, and a more relaxed approach (put the hammer down), come back and pull the Alt lead to see if it went away. So, this is where the case of the missing AMP gets interesting, but not surprising given it's MY bike. Once more time, I figure I will check before taking my shifter all apart (which I had finally set up great to find the sweet spot for shifting, and check. Well, I put the meter in-line and what happened, as I am now down to what is considered "normal" (could this be since it IS my bike after all). I had a reading of 2 milliamps. I double, triple, and got somewhat disbelieving as I kept checking and still 2 milliamps.
So the question is, where have all the AMPS gone? Can a leaky diode "plug" itself? Thought I would toss this head scratcher out there for anyone who might know where lost AMPS might go.
In any event, I disconnected the neg and added a in-line meter and read that I had a .23 AMP draw prior to finding the crushed wires. Fixed and replaced those and made doubly sure that they were safe, but still read 15 milliamps, after taking out all of the fuses.
I had been doing some reading and searching, along with a good buddy who was also doing research and we came up with the "leaky diode" mystery from the Alt. Now this is where it gets good.
I had gotten SOOOOOOO tired of fooling with what I had thought would be a trouble free to me bike, that I figured I would just do some riding and then with a clear mind, and a more relaxed approach (put the hammer down), come back and pull the Alt lead to see if it went away. So, this is where the case of the missing AMP gets interesting, but not surprising given it's MY bike. Once more time, I figure I will check before taking my shifter all apart (which I had finally set up great to find the sweet spot for shifting, and check. Well, I put the meter in-line and what happened, as I am now down to what is considered "normal" (could this be since it IS my bike after all). I had a reading of 2 milliamps. I double, triple, and got somewhat disbelieving as I kept checking and still 2 milliamps.
So the question is, where have all the AMPS gone? Can a leaky diode "plug" itself? Thought I would toss this head scratcher out there for anyone who might know where lost AMPS might go.
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