GL1800 (2012+): Painting the wing

[genedjr]

Well here goes. I plan to use this thread to discuss the best method for painting my 2012 wing. This will be a DIY project, so no handing it off to the painter. I will be doing this myself.

For paint, I am leaning toward PPG products as I have used them in metal on the past with good results. I have only painted plastic once and used duplicolor. The duplicolor was OK but one of the colors (the graphite) only came in cans and the finish is a bit stripped. The duplicolor clear is again OK, but I would like a harder coating. The scheme I am after for now is a simply flat black and graphite accents (the OEM silver parts). Suggestions on paints?

The first interesting bit is getting the old paint off the plastic. My black bike's paint is very soft and appears to be a single stage enamel. But I am not completely sure. Using polish to get the swirls and other marks out always turns the microfiber cloth black. I know I can sand it off, but I am hoping for a chemical method that removes the paint and does not harm or deform the plastic. Suggestions?

I expect to do this in stages as I ride all year round. For me it's OK to be paint-less, or looking sanded and spot primed, or in any other state of progress toward the end goal.

Any insight is most appreciated.
...gene

[BIG AL 57]

You are on the right track with the ppg products. I recomend the 2021 clearcoat for topcoat.
Best advice I have sanding them late model plastics is finer grit paper the better but remove all that garbage paint!
I will be watching this thread.
ppg certified bodyshop employed and yes its on my trike kit:D

[RaConnol]

Have you considered Vinyl warping your wing?
The good news it that you can always put it back to stock and it protects the paint for the life of the vinyl, approx. 5 years.

Rick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFgFAaNMqPw#t=222

and it the vinyl comes in some rather cool colors
http://www.3mskins.com/3mwrapscustomizer/design

http://alsacorp.com/strechchrome/

[jmohme]

Laminated vinyl lasts even longer and looks better too.
I have my business logo in a 4x8 ft laminated vinyl on the side of my event trailer. It is six years old and looks as good as the day it was applied.

[CaptLen]

I'll be interested to watch and learn, too as I have scratches on the saddlebag covers. I'd like to refinish.

[ColoradoWinger]

That link to the stretch chrome is something else. What a look.

[BamaTrider]

It is not always necessary to remove the old paint unless it's damaged. I first washed and de-greased the part, then used med grit soda blast media to dull the original finish. I washed again with mineral spirits and let dry. Next I used a conversion primer and allowed to dry completely. I then used a 2 part urethane single coat paint by Nason with excellent results. BASF has better paint than PPG, but is generally only available to professional body shops. Using 400 grit oxide paper to wet sand works good as well, but you have to be careful on the edges and high points or you'll risk damaging the soft ABS underneath.

[genedjr]

One point here is the black paint is very very soft. There are several "dings" in the shelter and mares on other spots that touched anything. The reason I want to remove the paint is concern about having a soft base will not support insect and rock impacts, essentially leaving the same problem. Should that be a concern?

As for a wrap, interesting thought. As I have painting tools - gun, compressor, filters, portable booth (home made) - I thought painting would be cheaper and for me easier. But I may look at the wrap approach. Are there issues with painting over the wrap, say pin stripping?

I also plan to add lights, specifically those that using mounting tape to stick on. Any issue there with a wrap?

...gene

[genedjr]

OK, using chems to remove paint.
Experiment one - paint stripper. Even though it was supposed to be OK for plastic, it ate the plastic. Failed.
Experiment two - DOT 3 brake fluid - SUCCESS!!! This worked on my take off silver piece that was removed for the fork brace. See attached pic. I actually forgot about this so this is several days in the fluid.

Now to try a black piece...

[rufus15]

Love it, post photo's if you can during the process and good luck.

[genedjr]

OK, another success, sort of...
In looking at a parts list, the fuel door seemed to be the cheapest part to experiment on.
After a 24 hour soak, the "good" side cleaned up very nicely but did (does) require some scraping with a plastic scraper to not damage the plastic.
The back side will take alot of scraping/scrubbing, but again it will clean up. Note the sticker was not impacted and I need to remove those before the soak.

A brass brush is too harsh and damages the plastic. A plastic kitchen scrubber and tools for working on an iPhone (pictured) works very well and does not damage the plastic.

Now I just need to do the work...
...gene

EDIT: well another 6 hours in the tank with DOT 3 and the rest of the paint under the sticker came off easily.

[genedjr]

Soooo - my goal is to flat black all the shiny black plastic. Here is a bigger picture of my bike today.
What used to be silver is Duplicolor Graphite wheel paint. I love the color, but it was very difficult to lay down with a rattle can.

My plan currently is to paint major assemblies, trunk, left saddle bag, shelter... As I want to keep riding it.

So can one of you real painters walk me through the prep and painting process for plastic? And while I am leaning toward PPG products, in looking at the all the choices, I am not sure what would be best for my application - again advice here is most welcome. I have seen a few videos, but none of them really seem to apply to the challenges for the wing.
...gene

[genedjr]

There are four places one the wing where emblems need to be removed for painting; the front of the shelter, the two side panels, the two radiator covers, and the trunk. For my next test I chose the side covers.

The goal of this test is to see if there is a way to apply the DOT3 without the need of a submersion tank. But first i need to take the emblem off.
The emblem is held in place with automotive mounting tape. If you look on the back of the part, the two "pins" sticking through are just to help locate the emblem and not how the emblem is fastened to the part. I carefully used a razor blade scraper to cut through the mounting tape and free up the emblem. Then I used Goo Gone (bought at Wal-Mart) to clean off the mounting tape residue.

Here are pictures.

[genedjr]

With the emblem removed, now I want to experiment on ways to apply the brake fluid so that I don't have to submerse each piece.

Experiment 3 - paint the part with brake fluid - FAILED. I tried this yesterday and the brake fluid dries out. It did soften the paint but not enough to remove easily.
Experiment 4 - soaked cheap microfiber cloth and cover the part. Mixed results. Still dried out too much. I covered the cloth with plastic wrap and that helped.
Experiment 5 - paint the part liberally and cover closely with plastic wrap. In progress.

[hparsons]

There are four places one the wing where emblems need to be removed for painting; the front of the shelter, the two side panels, the two radiator covers, and the trunk. For my next test I chose the side covers.

The goal of this test is to see if there is a way to apply the DOT3 without the need of a submersion tank. But first i need to take the emblem off.
The emblem is held in place with automotive mounting tape. If you look on the back of the part, the two "pins" sticking through are just to help locate the emblem and not how the emblem is fastened to the part. I carefully used a razor blade scraper to cut through the mounting tape and free up the emblem. Then I used Goo Gone (bought at Wal-Mart) to clean off the mounting tape residue.

Here are pictures.

I've heard that using fishing line is a good method to get the emblem off (instead of a razor blade).

[Cruiseman]

Fishing line or dental floss can be used in conjunction with a hot air dryer to remove badges and it will not damage the paint.

[genedjr]

With the emblem removed, now I want to experiment on ways to apply the brake fluid so that I don't have to submerse each piece.

Experiment 3 - paint the part with brake fluid - FAILED. I tried this yesterday and the brake fluid dries out. It did soften the paint but not enough to remove easily.
Experiment 4 - soaked cheap microfiber cloth and cover the part. Mixed results. Still dried out too much. I covered the cloth with plastic wrap and that helped.
Experiment 5 - paint the part liberally and cover closely with plastic wrap. In progress.

Experiment 5 - SUCCESS - this works well. I am still figuring out how to wrap the plastic around the parts I want to remove paint from, but this works very well. The trick seems to be to get all the air bubbles out. Just have the part, brake fluid, and plastic wrap. Scraping the part after 12 or so hours of soaking is also easy. I have found scraping followed by scrubbing to clean the loose paint off seems to work OK.

...gene

EDIT: Here is the after picture.

[genedjr]

Well, after sitting in my garage for a couple of weeks, I decided to put the unpainted parts back on my bike. And low and behold, I cracked the black piece above. These are hairline cracks and not all the way through. So now I need to do a bit of repair. I have seen a number of welding techniques, but this seems overkill. Has anyone repaired the plastic using glue? Or solvent to melt the plastic (ala model car)?

Suggestions? I really don't want to spend hours welding it up and refinishing it but will if that is the only real way to fix it.
...gene

[glarson3]

Well, after sitting in my garage for a couple of weeks, I decided to put the unpainted parts back on my bike. And low and behold, I cracked the black piece above. These are hairline cracks and not all the way through. So now I need to do a bit of repair. I have seen a number of welding techniques, but this seems overkill. Has anyone repaired the plastic using glue? Or solvent to melt the plastic (ala model car)?

Suggestions? I really don't want to spend hours welding it up and refinishing it but will if that is the only real way to fix it.
...gene

I know Rocky has found something that works quite well. He's used it to replace broken tabs on the lower cowl, etc. It dries within seconds, I believe, and seems stronger than the original piece. I'd send him a PM.

[Papa smurf2]

Will be watching and cheering you on as you undertake this project. BTW: the wrap chrome looks really cool