3.5mm Headset Pigtail Adapter

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  • 3.5mm Headset Pigtail Adapter

    Waldo has posted this a few times, here's one example:

    Waldo's 5 pin to 3.5mm adapter



    I saw one of those factory, off-the-shelf adapters for $60 for the first time not long ago. Recalling this image, and having some time to kill this afternoon...


    Shown with 3.5mm cable to earpieces attached...


    Shown without 3.5mm cable attached...

    Three tricks that you need to be cautious about if you choose to do this, that I found out:

    (1) If you have other devices in line (Hollsco GPS Input, Mic-Mutes, etc.), there's a LOT of connections, really, really close in that (small) abyss under that left pocket. Constantly check to make sure all channels are working - and that your cabling doesn't inadvertently disconnect as you reattach everything (DAMHIK!)

    (2) The 'piggyback' method of splicing into the connector that Waldo shows with his image. I think he describes it a bit better on his web pages, but essentially, you're jamming another contact on the back-side of the contact, where it's crimped. You need to make sure that it's not going to come loose; I've actually tied each of my piggy-backed wires, with soldered contacts (I used a couple of leads from electronic components I had here...) to the adjacent wire. I didn't get a picture, but it's a simple clove hitch, using a lightly waxed cord - or even dental floss that I tied each added wire to the original wire about 1/8" - 1/4" away from the contact. The whole works was shoved cautiously back into the boot for protection.

    (3) Ideally, the 3.5mm extension cable you'll buy to sacrifice for this will have a bit of thickness; mine ended up with three 26 ga wires, which worked well. This was small enough to fit in the cut-out area without having to modify the shroud or the box.

    If, and when the 3.5mm jack goes bad, no problem, replace the entire cable assembly with another.

    Total time - about two hours, with the proper tools and supplies available...total cost - $7 for a 8' long extension cord that's used for 3.5mm stereo connections. Only a 3'/1m cable is needed, my local Radio Shack didn't have any that short.
    Ken (IBA #50030) & Grace (IBA #62768)Tucson, AZ"Get busy living, or get busy dying." -Andy Dufresne, The Shawshank Redemption 1994ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕMy blog

  • #2
    Good post!!. I'm going to perform this mod and If I understand this correctly, I should be able to listen to the MP3 player and still get directions from the GPS.

    Comment: (For off-topic replies)


    • #3
      Not necessarily. This only makes a second, parallel path to your head, so you can use earbuds, instead of your in-helmet speakers.

      Add a Hollsco device if you want the GPS in your head with any earpiece.



      This sketch should bring a bit of clarity to my comment above, and why it's the Hollsco device that actually is the device that gets the 'alarm audio' (could be GPS or radar detector...) into the circuits.
      Ken (IBA #50030) & Grace (IBA #62768)Tucson, AZ"Get busy living, or get busy dying." -Andy Dufresne, The Shawshank Redemption 1994ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕMy blog

      Comment: (For off-topic replies)


      • #4
        I don't trust myself splicing wires, especially with the risk of it coming apart over time. Instead, I went with the Edsets universal adapter and am very happy with it.

        https://www.edsets.com/product_details.php?item_id=161

        Click image for larger version

Name:	super_univadapters.png
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        2008 Red GW1800 -- NRA Life Member - American Legion PUFL, American Legion Riders
        USMC 21 YRS/9 MO and when dead, a dead Marine.
        US Four Corner Ride https://clayusmcret.blogspot.com/
        2014 Mid-States Ride https://mid-states.blogspot.com/
        2015 NC to UT/NV Ride https://2015nvride.blogspot.com/

        50th State ridden on 19 Aug, 2016 DS #1584

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        • #5
          Ken, I think it was you who wrote a post that caught my eye about Ear Fuze ear buds or at least ear buds in general a couple years ago. I've been using them extensively since.

          I use an Edsets adapter like those shown above. It's a simple plug and play device, very rugged, and although I don't recall what I paid for it, I don't think it was very expensive.

          I still have the Edsets module on the side of my helmet and the speaker wires in the helmet but have unplugged and removed the helmet speakers. I can go back to helmet speakers in just a couple of minutes if wanted.
          Harvey Barlow
          Crosby County, TX
          2010 Goldwing Level II Pearl Yellow (sold at 93,000 miles)
          2014 Goldwing Level II Pearl Blue (sold at 27,000 miles to forum member)

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          • #6
            Originally posted by clayusmcret View Post
            I don't trust myself splicing wires, especially with the risk of it coming apart over time. Instead, I went with the Edsets universal adapter and am very happy with it.

            https://www.edsets.com/product_details.php?item_id=161

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]n39600[/ATTACH]

            +1

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            • #7
              As I wrote in the initial post, the idea was just another implementation of someone else's idea. I have a similar adapter that I fabricated and had in use during my SaddleSore last month, which I think really helped me in my fatigue later in the ride.

              It's not that I didn't want to buy a $60 adapter...but if you can do the same thing for 1/10th the price...

              In some of Waldo's descriptions,I found a bit of clarity could be provided on how that 'splicing' technique could be improved upon. Ideally, with another set of terminals,and the proper tools, the best way would be to crimp both wires onto an individual terminal, then install that into the connector shell. This method described here would be the next best process.
              Ken (IBA #50030) & Grace (IBA #62768)Tucson, AZ"Get busy living, or get busy dying." -Andy Dufresne, The Shawshank Redemption 1994ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕMy blog

              Comment: (For off-topic replies)

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