Front rotor recommendations

[CAC]

I want to replace my front rotors. Mine have a pretty good lip and are worn. After market or OEM? Also, when replacing them should I also change the pads even though they are new?

[MAGENTA]

I personally would stick with the oem,they seem to last forever and are designed specifically for this bike,Ole Yeller Mbg Pa

[MAGENTA]

Oops,As far as the pads,if they are pretty fresh i would reuse them !!! Ole Yeller Mbg Pa

[TravelinLite]

CAC, I believe these have worked well for others but can't be sure. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Front-...item4164562387

Price is certainly right. If you can justify it, I'd replace the pads at the same time as the rotors, but not a requirement.

[Kit Carson]

Well old pads do have a bit of a glaze and uneven wear that matches the old rotors. They will wear in but will also wear those little grooves into the new rotors also.

Would be best to start out with new pads, let them mate to each other. I would stick with OEM rotors as much as you ride, you know they will last a long time, the knowledge of after market ones is not well known at the moment.

I can tell you this, I had an ST1300 and put fancy rotors on it, touted to keep temps down, all those extra cuts and holes may have done so, but they also ate up pads twice as fast as the originals.

Think of sandpaper, fine has little holes, course has big holes and diamonds and half moons and all those things. They may cause the rotor to run cool on a race bike, not a concern on the Wing.

[Rick S]

OEM. As I know they will fit. Less to worry about

[Cruiseman]

I have installed EBC rotors on other bikes and they are nice, but I think on my Wing I would stick with OEM. Check with Cyclemax.com. I know he sells rotors for the 1500, but not sure about the 1800.

[orangecrate]

I have installed EBC rotors on other bikes and they are nice, but I think on my Wing I would stick with OEM. Check with Cyclemax.com. I know he sells rotors for the 1500, but not sure about the 1800.

Yep... Definitely OEM.

[jmohme]

OEM would be my first choice.

[Yellowbird]

OEM works for me too

[MAGENTA]

Well old pads do have a bit of a glaze and uneven wear that matches the old rotors. They will wear in but will also wear those little grooves into the new rotors also.

Would be best to start out with new pads, let them mate to each other. I would stick with OEM rotors as much as you ride, you know they will last a long time, the knowledge of after market ones is not well known at the moment.

I can tell you this, I had an ST1300 and put fancy rotors on it, touted to keep temps down, all those extra cuts and holes may have done so, but they also ate up pads twice as fast as the originals.

Think of sandpaper, fine has little holes, course has big holes and diamonds and half moons and all those things. They may cause the rotor to run cool on a race bike, not a concern on the Wing.

Kit has a good point about the pads conforming to the old rotors,but if the pads were not on long,say a few thousand miles they may be ok,but if much longer than that im with kit,do it right and just put everything new on and forget it !!! Ole Yeller Mbg Pa

[CAC]

OEM it is, especially since I have close 1/4 million miles on my original sets. I am going to have them on hand and ready for my winter tear down. I was going to change them now but I stop good and there is no vibration, so I'll leave well enough alone. Then I will not feel so bad about changing the pads again. Thanks.

[RaConnol]

Timely topic.

I remove my brake rotors when I get the front tire changed, which I have done twice now.
The first time I removed the brake rotor was to install centramatics AND get a new front tire installed.

There is a risk that whomever changes your front tire might bump or drop the wheel with enough force to bend or scratch one of the rotors.
Shouldn't happen, but with soapy water and a little distraction, feces occurs, and rotor are expensive.

This last weekend, while reinstalling the rotor after have a new front tire installed, I broke one of the caliber bolts, just as I was finishing the install.
I do have a torque wrench and had not yet applied much torque when the head snapped off.

Clearly I had over torqued the bolt during one of the previous times I had removed the bolts. My bad, nobody's fault put my own.
The stud was just coated with blue locktight but came out without too much fuss.

The problem is, that those rotor bolts can take a week to order and arrive.

So, my recommendation is that if you want to reuse the bolts, do be careful, but also keep another set on hand, in the unlikely event you make a booboo.

Rick

[jmohme]

Timely topic.

I remove my brake rotors when I get the front tire changed, which I have done twice now.
The first time I removed the brake rotor was to install centramatics AND get a new front tire installed.

There is a risk that whomever changes your front tire might bump or drop the wheel with enough force to bend or scratch one of the rotors.
Shouldn't happen, but with soapy water and a little distraction, feces occurs, and rotor are expensive.

This last weekend, while reinstalling the rotor after have a new front tire installed, I broke one of the caliber bolts, just as I was finishing the install.
I do have a torque wrench and had not yet applied much torque when the head snapped off.

Clearly I had over torqued the bolt during one of the previous times I had removed the bolts. My bad, nobody's fault put my own.
The stud was just coated with blue locktight but came out without too much fuss.

The problem is, that those rotor bolts can take a week to order and arrive.

So, my recommendation is that if you want to reuse the bolts, do be careful, but also keep another set on hand, in the unlikely event you make a booboo.

Rick

Caliper, or rotor bolts?
I am pretty sure there is something in the service manual about not reusing the rotor bolts. I alway thought it was just because of the locking compound that comes on the new bolts, but maybe there is another reason.
That said, I have always reused mine.

[CAC]

The manual says new caliper mounting bolts. I put new in this past winter when I had them off to refresh the front end. I will put new in this winter when I do it again. Those buggers at expensive for what they are.

[Rick Mays]

There is a wear limit on your rotors. Mic them and see if they are out of tolerance, before buying new. On the rotor bolts, do what you feel is right. I reuse them a few times. Clean the threads, reapply blue Loctite, back off 1/4 lb on the torque. I would replace the discs if they are out of spec, and suggest factory.

[Rocky]

This USA vendor has the "Arashi" Brake rotors. (they look like the Golfer style)

I got a few friends that say they are better than OEM for a lot less cash too. who doesn't like to save money and get a better product..

http://www.madhornets.com/front-brake-disc-rotors-honda-cbr-600-f4-cbr900rr-gold-wing-gl1800-vfr-vtec-slv-gl-xl1000-1992-2011-arashi/?gclid=CJzF-sCQwL8CFUiGfgodSaAAWQ#reviews

Rear rotors can be had for cheap on Fleabay.

[wingleader09]

Thanks for the link Rocky!

[Rocky]

There is a wear limit on your rotors. Mic them and see if they are out of tolerance, before buying new. On the rotor bolts, do what you feel is right. I reuse them a few times. Clean the threads, reapply blue Loctite, back off 1/4 lb on the torque. I would replace the discs if they are out of spec, and suggest factory.

Rick. I have chrome wheels and like you have reused my 2004 bolts many many times taking my rotors off the give my wheel a deep cleaning when change tires out.

I would never use thread locker on them. why have build up when it's not needed when I take them bolts of so often.

I read this what others have said about these bolts bein "Stretch bolts" and need to be replaced. All I can say is "Stop over Torquing them" and the heads won't snap off.

I mean there is six bolts holding the rotor on. you aren't going to die if one backs off slightly..lol

As for Grooves on the rotors. If they are still in spec??.
you can take them to a machine shop that resurfaces auto Flywheels. They may charge you $30-$40 because they have two sides that needs surfacing.

If replacing rotors with fairly new ads. Get a piece of 100 grit sandpaper any put in on a Flat surface and sand until the pad face is smooth so you don't transfer the grooves to your new machined or new rotor.

Now if you have a Lathe handy (I do)
I mount them on the lathe and use a die grinder with a sanding disc to clean up my stack of rotors.






Wingleader. Your Welcome.

[Rick Mays]

I have always used just a dab of blue Loctite, beings I back off 1/2 lb. Probably could go without, just something I do. I have never broke one off, had one back out either.