ABS Light Stays On

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  • ABS Light Stays On

    Okay here goes: My ABS Light on the dash is now staying on : 2012 Level 4
    • I cleaned the sensor and ABS ring on the right side of wheel
    • I have run it for miles at speed and it now doesn't go out
    • I stopped the bike after an initial 15 minute highway run, put it in neutral, then put the kickstand down - NO Blinking Code - NONE
    • I removed the two ABS fuses in an attempt to reset the ABS Light and it's still on.
    I just ordered the Service Manual - so at this moment I have no other resources to attempt a diagnostic.........could one of the wheel sensors be dead?

    Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have not had the bike in for any service and have not brought it in for the recall - not sure if my '12 is in the recall. I like going to our dealer as much as getting a tooth pulled...........they usually break more than they fix..........

    The light just came on the other day while on the interstate with perfect weather conditions. I have no clue.

    '12 GL1800 Level 4 & '08 FLHX Darksider #1378

  • #2
    Most of the time, in fact all of the time when the ABS light will not go out and does not throw a code it is simply a pin connector in the system not making contact.
    This is hard to determine as at the controllers the pin connectors plug in so you cannot check past the connectors. A pin tool or even an old brass ball point pen ink cartridge works to very slightly move them a bit.

    Been many who have invested many dollars taking such a problem to a shop and their bike sits and sits and sits and the problem is never resolved. It always turns out to be a pin not making contact somewhere in the system, and that is the problem, SOMEWHERE as there is no way to determine which one easily it is at the controllers or the main computer module as if it is a pin connector at the front or rear wheel sensor it will throw a code.

    You can try taking off the tupperware, unplugging them all and spraying them with contact cleaner and go from there. It can be a royal (pin in the A) to find the one pin that is not making contact. Careful study of the schematic and a needle stuck in a wire does help determine if you have line voltage or pulse voltage respective to when you are supposed to have this. It can become quite a challenge.

    Be careful moving pins as you do not want to push one when plugging things back up. Just a wiggle is all you need enough to make sure they all touch the female plug.

    The service manual as with many electrical situations does not address this issue. They leave it up to us in the field to figure these things out. There are no trouble shooting tips for many situations with these bikes.

    Oh you do have full brakes, just not ABS Function, so you can ride it all you wish, brakes will not fail, just not function as ABS.

    Comment: (For off-topic replies)

    • #3
      You might also want to test the sensors. Use a digital volt ohm meter to chech resistance. I don't know the exact spec on Hondas sensors, but probably in the 1200 to 1400 Ohm range, but definitely not shorted or open. Next set your meter to AC Millivolts. Spin the wheel by hand and you should see a reading that is proportional to wheel speed. Most vehicles you can easily attain 250 mv spinning the wheel by hand. After visual inspection, thieves tests are where I go before tearing anything apart.

      Comment: (For off-topic replies)

      • wild turkey
        wild turkey commented
        Editing a comment
        Mike I would take it to the dealer, we have had 2 recalls. My abs light has stayed on about 10 feet after I take off and then it goes out. It has been doing that from the start. If its covered under warranty let them check it out before it does more damage. Keep eat the cracklins you will be alright haha
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