Brake Pads Robbing on Rotor

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  • Brake Pads Robbing on Rotor

    When I return from a road trip the next day I noticed the bike doesn't want to move like before. I put it on jack and the wheel does turn freely. Since it was time I went ahead and replaced the brake pads and cleaned everything good, however the wheel still not turning freely and pads still ribbing on the rotor. I am wonder if this related to brake recalls. Guess I need to take it in.

  • #2
    PapaHoosh, we "all" talked about, and thought...wow...we would love to help this guy...but we have no idea of what YEAR your bike is...how many MILES you have on it, whether it is ABS or not, etc, etc, etc.

    Please help us....so we can help you.

    Comment: (For off-topic replies)


    • PapaHoosh
      PapaHoosh commented
      Editing a comment
      2010 Lvl1. no ABS, 80000 miles
      1/3/2014 miles=63559 Replace/Flush Both Brake & Clutch Fluid

  • #3
    PapaHoosh, I will offer a few suggestions.
    1) When you put the new pads in, the tab at the top of the pad(s) did not properly seat into its hole. This is common.
    2) The forks are not in proper alignment. In the service manual there is a procedure for bouncing the forks and tightening the bolts in a specific order.
    3) One or both of your brake master cylinders is too full of brake fluid. Also very common.
    Richard
    Darksider #390
    Murgie's FAQ

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    • #4
      Bigbird, did this happen after you pushed the brake pad back into the caliper with your springclip from another thread?
      2011 Harley Ultra Limited

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      • #5
        Are you talking about front or rear brakes? Has your GW had the required brake fluid services done on the mileage anniversaries as specified by Honda's maintenance schedule?
        Harvey Barlow
        Crosby County, TX
        2010 Goldwing Level II Pearl Yellow (sold at 93,000 miles)
        2014 Goldwing Level II Pearl Blue (sold at 27,000 miles to forum member)

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        • #6
          Which wheel? Front, Back or both?
          How bad is the dragging? Is it just grazing the rotors and allowing the tire to spin freely with a little noise or is it actively causing the wheel to stop spinning and requiring a lot of effort to spin the tire?

          In a rush I once forgot to put the front axle in with the index line at the fork like it should have been and it resulted in the caliper (not the pad) dragging on the rotor. Thankfully I noticed on a shakedown ride after the install so I was able to fix it with no real damage.
          Learn to ride your bike so your bike doesn't ride you....

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          • #7
            Originally posted by USNRider View Post
            ...
            In a rush I once forgot to put the front axle in with the index line at the fork like it should have been and it resulted in the caliper (not the pad) dragging on the rotor. Thankfully I noticed on a shakedown ride after the install so I was able to fix it with no real damage.
            Yup, I have centramatics and I need to really pull outwards on the left shock to get the index line out as far as needed for the recommended gap to be sufficient for the feeler gauge to clear the front left inside gab between the caliper and the rotor.

            Papa, if it is the front left side that is dragging, check the gap as the the factory shop manual, and my guess is that you will need to loosen the pinch bolts and pull out the left fork so that the index mark on the front axle is almost starting to get inside the front fork itself. Check the gap and clearance again until everything moves freely.

            Also insure the floating rotor stays clear the inside of the left fork, they can catch as well.

            My guess is that if you are getting some free movement and then a catch, it is one of the floating rotor stays which is making contract. Regardless the fix is the same as above.

            Also if this problem has just appeared out of nowhere, I would also suggest you remove the left rotor and carefully inspect it for alignment. It may have been bumped, somehow, somewhere and been damaged. This would also explain free movement and then a catch.

            Rick
            2010 GL1800ADA (CDN eh!)
            DS 1126
            95 FLSTC Sold to a nice family.

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            • #8
              Well, since I was not able to correct the issue, yesterday I had the bike towed to local Honda shop (it was a sad moment to see it on a tow truck).
              The shop told me today that they opened a case with Mother Honda and parts coming and it appears it is related to brake recall so there should not be any change to me. He said even though the recall is for rear brake it is still linked to front brake. I am not sure what is going to be replaced. I will update once I learn more.

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              • #9
                Originally posted by PapaHoosh View Post
                ...I will update once I learn more.[/FONT][/COLOR]
                Please do. We will all learn from this.
                Richard
                Darksider #390
                Murgie's FAQ

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                • #10
                  When you guys spin your back wheel does it spin for awhile before stopping? Mine has always had some drag and does not spin very freely,

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                  • #11
                    Originally posted by CAC View Post
                    When you guys spin your back wheel does it spin for awhile before stopping? Mine has always had some drag and does not spin very freely,
                    Mine does the same thing. Even if the brakes were not touching at all, the final drive will provide drag.
                    Richard
                    Darksider #390
                    Murgie's FAQ

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                    • #12
                      Originally posted by TravelinLite View Post

                      Mine does the same thing. Even if the brakes were not touching at all, the final drive will provide drag.
                      Thanks Richard, I can relax now.

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                      • #13
                        CAC, mine does the same as Richards', and it is indeed the final drive slowing it down.

                        BTW, I just replace all four brake pads up front today...because ONE of them was getting thinner than the other three...(urg...don't that make ya mad?) So, rather than replace only that one pad, or both pads in the one caliper, I went ahead and replaced all four. BUT...contrary to Mother Honda...I know how to lube things up well enough that the pads won't drag, and the pistons will retract as they should do.

                        So, new front tire today, all new brake pads up front, and now just waiting for my new....replacement Daytona mufflers from Torq Master to show up. He is replacing my Daytona mufflers for FREE, because there was a chrome issue on the underside of each muffler.

                        PapaHoosh, please do let us know what the dealer does to remedy the issue on your bike.

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