Powder coating. Get it right (long)

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  • Powder coating. Get it right (long)

    There was recently a thread on rims where a few members, including myself brought up powder coating.
    I am a huge fan of powder coating. The finish is tough as nails, and looks good too. And for folks like myself that think less is more when it comes to chrome, It is a good option.

    Powder coating has become so popular in recent years that there are shops popping up everywhere. This can be really good for the consumer, but there is a down side too.
    While there are a lot of shops that powder coat these days, there are relatively few that do it correctly. So I thought I would share my experience in this subject.

    I was a maintenance manager at a trucking company that had 300 + vehicles on the road. We instituted a wheel refurbishing program where we would take our truck wheels, media blast them. Inspect them for cracks, bends, and wear in the lug areas.
    If they failed in any of the above, they were destroyed and replaced. If they passed we would have them powder coated.

    In our search for a shop that would do the coating we actually found a shop that did a turn key process where they took our wheels and did the entire job for us. Even better yet, they would bring the refurbished rims back with the tires of our choice mounted, and pick up the next batch to be done. They also brought back the rejects for us to dispose of so that we could verify that they were indeed bad rims.

    This worked out great until one of our trucks that was running a route on a hot summer day in the hill country west of Austin sheared the wheel studs and lost a set a duals. Our first thought was that our shop people failed to torque the lugs, but on inspection, we saw somenting unusual.
    The coating between the rims looked as if it had melted and was slung out by centrifugal force, and that is indeed what had happened.

    We didn't know if this was just a case of bad product or what, so we called the shop and their supplier of coatings. The supplier sent a rep out to evaluate our issue, and before he arrived, we had another truck do the same thing!

    When the rep arrived, he looked at the damaged wheels and tested the coating thickness and hardness. He verified what we suspected, that the coating had not been fully cured and the heat from excessive braking did indeed melt the coating between the duals creating a loose wheel situation. Once that happened, it was only a matter of time before the shifting wheels sheared off the studs.

    At that point, the Dupont rep, my tire salesman, and myself visited the refurb shop.
    The shop was set up where the wheels were prepped, they were preheated and hung on an overhead track where they were sprayed and sent into the oven for curing.
    The track was constantly moving so this was a sort of assembly line process. The oven was a long narrow enclosure about 20 ft long with heating elements spaced evenly throughout it.
    The Dupont rep and shop foreman verified that the temperature was correct and that the speed of the conveyor was such that the wheels did get the correct amount of oven time.
    We then tested the finished wheels and 3 out of 4 failed! At that point, the process was shut down until the cause could be found. The Dupont rep took samples of the unused coating back for testing and the shop foreman proceeded with equipment checks where they found that three of the heating elements inside the oven were not functioning. That basically reduced the amount of curing time enough that the heavier wheels did not completely cure.
    Once that was corrected. the process was started back up.

    From that point on, we started testing wheels when we took delivery. We still had an occasional failure that got sent back, but the majority passed and went into use without any more drama.

    In this case, the shop just experienced an equipment failure, but after that incident, when I decided to have items powder coated for my personal use, I started looking at different shops and asking questions. What I found is that many of these shops have no clue as to what they are doing. They just spray and bake. Most of them have the oven temperatures right, but will heat small and large parts at the same time and not allow the larger parts enough oven time to totally cure.

    Now if you are having lawn chairs or even bike parts like luggage racks done, this is probably not an issue other than that partially cured coating is not going to be as hard as it should be.
    Even parts like front wheels may never see an issue. Rear wheels may be a different story.

    The bottom line is talk to a shop before hand and ask questions about their process. I also tell them before they start that I will be testing the finished product.
    When it comes to masking. Always specify that any machined surface that mates to other parts needs to be masked off. This will not only ensure proper fit at reassembly, but would also prevent the failures we saw on our truck wheels in the event that the coating fails.

    As far as testing goes, it is a very simple process. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up a can of MEK solvent. Wet a Qtip and rub the coating rapidly 10 or 12 times. If the coating is properly cured, this will have no effect on the finish. If not, the coating will smear and it needs to be redone.
    Last edited by Cruiseman; 09-15-2014, 06:33 PM.

  • #2
    Unless you deal with some shop that has experience with Cast Aluminum motorcycle wheels, it is pot luck. What happens is when the cast aluminum is heated generally over heated as standard powder coating shops do not have a clue about motorcycle wheels is that the metal produces a gas. This gas causes tiny bubbles in the power coat, their solution is to recoat and recover hiding these imperfections.

    Although heating the Cast aluminum does change the molecular structure of the wheel and does reduce its structural strength when it comes to motorcycles it does not seem to be a problem.

    However some shops totally refuse to powder coat any cast aluminum wheels due to the possibility of lawyers and bean counters.

    Comment: (For off-topic replies)


    • #3
      Originally posted by Kit Carson View Post
      Unless you deal with some shop that has experience with Cast Aluminum motorcycle wheels, it is pot luck. What happens is when the cast aluminum is heated generally over heated as standard powder coating shops do not have a clue about motorcycle wheels is that the metal produces a gas. This gas causes tiny bubbles in the power coat, their solution is to recoat and recover hiding these imperfections.

      Although heating the Cast aluminum does change the molecular structure of the wheel and does reduce its structural strength when it comes to motorcycles it does not seem to be a problem.

      However some shops totally refuse to powder coat any cast aluminum wheels due to the possibility of lawyers and bean counters.
      Yet another reason to research a shop before letting them touch your parts.
      Fortunately, my research led me to to the right shop.

      Comment: (For off-topic replies)


      • #4
        So, anyone have recommendations for the Dallas/Ft Worth area?
        2012 Honda Goldwing | 2009 Timeout Camper



        Patriot Guard Rider since 2007 | IBA member #59823

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jmohme View Post

          Yet another reason to research a shop before letting them touch your parts.
          Fortunately, my research led me to to the right shop.
          So what is the right shop?
          "I ask, sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people, except for few public officials." (George Mason, 3 Elliot, Debates at 425-426)

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          • #6
            Very well written info above. Thanks for sharing this good technical info, so that others can be....aware.

            I am quite hapy with my local shop, as they are the biggest, and oldest shop in the area, and have many State contracts. I know the owner well, so I am comfortable.

            Again, thanks for sharing very well written info.

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            • #7
              Dear JMOHME- thank you for the education- that could save one of us from a serious problem! Well done!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by hparsons View Post
                So, anyone have recommendations for the Dallas/Ft Worth area?
                I can set you up with a really good shop in San Antonio.

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                • Ketch
                  Ketch commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I am in San Antonio, could you please share that shop with me?

              • #9
                Jerry, Thanks for the great write-up! What are the questions we should ask a prospective powder coating shop? I have never had anything powder coated and haven't got a clue what to ask. Your testing procedure seems simple enough. Thank you.

                Cruiseman, what was your edit in the OP?

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                • #10
                  Originally posted by wingleader09 View Post
                  Jerry, Thanks for the great write-up! What are the questions we should ask a prospective powder coating shop? I have never had anything powder coated and haven't got a clue what to ask. Your testing procedure seems simple enough. Thank you.

                  Cruiseman, what was your edit in the OP?
                  Just ask about their process from start to finish.
                  As far as prep goes, I usually have my parts media blasted before I take them in, but from there I would ask about their prep and if they pre heat before applying the coating.
                  This is an important step, for heavier parts. It promotes better bonding and more even flow of the coating. Preheating also addresses the outgassing that Kit Carson brought up.
                  Some shops skip this step entirely. I even had one shop reply to that question that they didn't need to preheat because the metal was warmed by friction when they glass beaded the parts.

                  Ask about the products that they use. Dupont, PPG etc. I wouldn't put much faith in off brands, although they are probably just relabeled versions of the brand names.

                  As I stated in my first post, the most important part of the process is curing in the ovens.
                  The temperatures vary somewhat from one coating to the next, but where most shops fail is in curing time. so ask how they determine the amount of time in the oven. If they can't answer, then they are probably just guessing at it. Also if you see that they load the racks with large parts like wheels, and smaller parts made of thinner metals, they probably either under curing the wheels or over cooking the smaller ones and either way somebody is getting shorted.

                  Ask about their quality control.
                  I asked this at one shop and they took me out into the cooling room. They would spray and cure a scrap piece of similar richness to the rest of the part on the rack for the purpose testing. The foreman then produced a handy little gadget that measured the thickness of the coating and also did the MEK test on the sample piece.
                  Some of the other shops didn't even seem to know what MEK is.

                  I think most decent coating shops are pretty easy to find. The fly by nighters are usually even more obvious.
                  The one that I use came highly recommended by a trusted friend, and does a large amount of industrial and aviation work. I still started asking these questions but after the second question, the shop foreman stepped in and just went though it all without my having to ask much of anything.

                  Good shops are proud of their work and are usually more than willing to show you what they do and why they do it.


                  And Yes, Cruisman, what did you edit? I hope I didn't break any posting rules!

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                  • #11
                    Great and informative writeup. I've been in charge of shops in the Navy that powdercoated and you are correct. There is a right way and wrong way to do the job. At my first shop we were told to preheat but not why. Sadly my guys later convinced me as I was uneducated about it that preheating wasn't required and they favored skipping the step for speed. Granted, the parts weren't going to cause catastrophic failure as your description, but we were putting out a poor quality product. The second shop I was in charge of actually had a solid training program before we started powdercoating and I learned a lot. We even did random tests throughout the 2 years I was in charge of the shop to ensure everything was getting done properly.
                    Learn to ride your bike so your bike doesn't ride you....

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